Crocheted Baby Booties

In the past I've not admired crocheted objects. They looked icky to me. But during the past couple of years crochet has grown on me. It's easier and more gratifying than knitting when you're making blankets. And recently I've discovered baby booties go by more quickly on a hook than with needles.

I have Lion Brand Yarn to thank for this bootie pattern. Reading crochet patterns isn't easy when you're a beginner, but I took it one step at a time and after two pairs of funny looking booties I finally made a pair that resembled something. 

I would not call it a baby bootie in the size I was successful at, but more of a small child's slipper.

Either way, I thought they were cute and a little kitchy. They don't have the elegance of a knitted bootie, but functionality outweighs elegance when it comes to clothing a baby.

This is really a great way to make a bootie. You create the sole first, then crochet around to make the vertical volume, then work across to make the front and you end with the cuff.

I'm unable to link the pattern -- it just takes you to the main Lion Brand page, so I'll paste the pattern below. Initially it required a lot of counting and I couldn't figure out how to get the number of cuff stitches that pattern suggests you should have, but after a couple of tries I worked it out.

Also, I still haven't really figured out hook size so I used a J hook and it turned out just fine.

BOOTIE (make 2) Sole Ch 5 (7, 9, 9). Foundation Row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across - 4 (6, 8, 8) sc. Next 5 (6, 7, 9) Rows: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. Next Row: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc - 6 (8, 10, 10) sc. Next 4 (7, 10, 12) Rows: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. Place marker in last st worked. Move marker up as work progresses. Sides Rnd 1: Do not turn, work 10 (14, 18, 22) sc evenly spaced down side of sole; work 4 (6, 8, 8) sc along opposite side of foundation ch (this is the heel); work 10 (14, 18, 22) sc evenly spaced along other side of sole; work 6 (8, 10, 10) sc across to marker - 30 (42, 54, 62) sc. Next 2 (3, 4, 5) Rnds: Working in front loops only, sc in each sc around. Top of Foot Note: When working top of foot, do not ch 1 at the beginning of rows. Row 1: Sc in next 1 (1, 2, 2) sc, sl st in next sc, turn, sk sl st, working in front loops only, sc in next 6 (8, 10, 10) sc; working in both loops, sl st in next 2 sc; leave remaining sts unworked. Next 4 (8, 12, 14) Rows: Turn, sk first 2 sl sts, working in front loops only, sc in next 6 (8, 10, 10) sc across top of foot; working in both loops, sl st in next 2 sc along side of Bootie. Next Row: Turn, sk first 2 sl sts, working in front loops only, sc in next 6 (8, 10, 10) sc across top of foot; working in both loops, sl st in next sc along side of Bootie. Cuff Rnd 1: Turn, sk first sl st, working through both loops, sc in each sc around entire Bootie opening; do not join - 18 (22, 26, 30) sc. Note: If you would like cuff to be a little tighter, when working Rnd 2, work 3 decreases evenly spaced around as follows: draw up a loop in each of next 2 sts, yarnover and draw through all 3 loops on hook. Rnd 2: Sc in each sc around. Rep last rnd until cuff measures 1 1/2 (2, 3, 4) in. (4 (5, 7.5, 10) cm). Fasten off. FINISHING Weave in ends.